WHO WE ARE? ANTWERP REHAB & TRAINING TEAM

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1 CORE TRAINING & SHOULDER INJURIES SPORTCLIMBING JOHAN DE CONINCK - ART WHO WE ARE? ANTWERP REHAB & TRAINING TEAM Johan De Coninck Physical Coach Simon De Wilde - Sportsfysio Olivier Kleynjans Sportsfysio Tom Van Meel - Sportsfysio Annelien De Mesel - Sportsfysio Raf Gysemans Physical Coach Ansje Coart - Physical Coach 1

2 WHAT WE DO? CREATING ATHLETES CORE TRAINING FOR CLIMBING 2

3 CASE: SPORT SPECIFIC INJURIES E.G. CLIMBING Common injuries: Multidirectional instability (sub-)luxations (due to shoulder position) Impingement supraspinatuspees Overload rotator cuff tendons Common dysfunctions: Scapular winging ANATOMY SHOULDER 3

4 ANATOMY SHOULDER ANATOMY SHOULDER 4

5 ANATOMY SHOULDER ANATOMY SHOULDER LABRUM TEAR 5

6 ANATOMY SHOULDER IMPINGEMENT CASE: SPORT SPECIFIC INJURY E.G. CLIMBING 6

7 FASCIA RE-TRAINING THE TISSUE TENSEGRITY IN THE BODY Wat? Hoe? Waarom? 7

8 FASCIA WAT HEEFT FASCIA NODIG? Kwalitatieve beweging ipv kwantiteit (volume) Vocht - PH - dehydratie gevaar! Slide & glide van de lagen lasagne Elastic Recoil Belasting over de full range of motion verdelen Triggerpoints losmaken doorheen behandelingen / foamrollen / lacrossball 8

9 FASCIA WAT HEEFT FASCIA NIET NODIG? Te veel isometrische training statische overload Dehydratatie overload alcohol vet - suiker Verkorte bewegingen en slecht postuur 9

10 CRAPPY POSTURE CRAPPY FASCIA inactieve houding negatieve gevolgen voor uw fascia WHAT DO WE NEED? STABILITY MOBILITY & PILLAR STRENGTH 10

11 PILLAR STRENGTH Shoulder Complex CORE Hip + Lower Quadrant CORE STRENGTH THE FUNCTIONAL LINE DURING CLIMBING MOVES 11

12 SPIRAL LINE Rotaties van laag naar hoog Rotaties van hoog naar laag Diagonale doorsteekbeweging met armen en benen Opduwen op 1 been IMPORTANT FUNCTION OF THE SCAPULA - SCHOULDERBLADE Providing a stable base for the glenohumeral joint Pro-en retractie during ADL Enough elevation of the acromion through overhead movements, avoiding impingement. Pre tension in the muscles attached on the scapula An important chain in the kinetic energy 12

13 IMPORTANT FUNCTION OF THE SCAPULA - SCHOULDERBLADE functie trapezius MUSCLE CHAINS WEAK POSTURE Janda s Upper-Crossed Syndrome Cause of shoulder injuries: instability / bad posture 13

14 SCAPULAR DYSKINESIS - WINGING 14

15 PRO & RETRACTIE Protractie scapula m. Serratus anterior m. Pectoralis minor Retractie scapula m. Trapezius (middle fibers, lower fibers) m. Rhomboïdeus major / minor m. Latissimus dorsi Krachtenkoppel: Serratus anterior & Trapezius 15

16 PRO & RETRACTIE ANALYTICAL ACTIVATION SERRATUS ANTERIOR 16

17 CONTROL OF SCAPULA PLYOMETRICS - ANALYTICAL 17

18 COMBINATION RIB FLARE WINGING CONTROL OF RIB FLAIRE 18

19 REFLEXIVELY STABILIZATION Proximal stability is necessary before maximum power is produced. Unconscious reactions and speed of contraction is more important than strength Muscle activation is more important than muscles strength GLOBAL STABILITY: MUSCLE CHAINS Muscle chains & loops affecting the quality of range of motion through the link of the core and the extremities. Benninghoff (1936) 19

20 KINETIC CHAIN ANATOMY LINES PERFORMANCE MOVEMENT 1 Pillar Prep CORE 2 Movement Prep Analytical 3 Plyometrics 4 Movement Skills Agility 5 Relative Power 20

21 PILLAR PREP: MORE THAN PLANKING PILLAR PREP CORE ACTIVATION 21

22 PILLAR PREP CORE ACTIVATION PILLAR PREP CORE ACTIVATION 22

23 PILLAR PREP CORE ACTIVATION PERFORMANCE MOVEMENT 1 Pillar Prep CORE 2 Movement Prep Analytical 3 Plyometrics 4 Movement Skills Agility 5 Relative Power 23

24 MOVEMENT PREP - ANALYTICAL COMMON MISTAKES PULL UPS shoulder pain during pull ups 24

25 PERFORMANCE MOVEMENT 1 Pillar Prep CORE 2 Movement Prep Analytical 3 Plyometrics SSC cycle 4 Movement Skills Agility 5 Relative Power PLYOMETRIC PULL-UP 25

26 PLYOMETRIC ASSISTED PUSH-UP COMMON MISTAKES PUSH-UPS how to do a proper push-up 26

27 PERFORMANCE MOVEMENT 1 Pillar Prep CORE 2 Movement Prep Analytical 3 Plyometrics 4 Movement Skills Agility 5 Relative Power MOVEMENT SKILLS AGILITY - MANTLE 27

28 COMMON MISTAKES DIPINGS dippings PERFORMANCE MOVEMENT 1 Pillar Prep CORE 2 Movement Prep Analytical 3 Plyometrics 4 Movement Skills Agility 5 Relative Power 28

29 RELATIVE POWER: END PHASE! FUNCTIONAL SCREENING Wat? Individuele benadering Zoeken naar het oorzakelijk verband van klachten Beginner tot topsporter Opmaken oefenschema / filmfragmenten Prestatie bevorderend Duur kostprijs? 1u 1,5u 75 - klimmerskorting 60 / screening 29

30 CONTACT Johan De Coninck 30